Zagora Desert: two days, one night, small dunes

The road to Zagora is half the trip

The route climbs the High Atlas to the Tizi n'Tichka pass, at about 2,260 m, then drops to Ouarzazate and follows the Drâa valley past Agdez to Zagora. Expect hairpins, a few photo stops and lunch on the way.

Most two-day tours stop at the ksar of Aït Ben Haddou, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1987. The Drâa valley palm groves and the old kasbahs along them are, for many people, as good as the dunes. If that sounds dull to you, Zagora is the wrong trip.

What the dunes near Zagora look like

The sandy areas around Zagora, mainly towards Tinfou and Erg Lihoudi, are small dune fields set in stony plain. You can walk up a dune, watch the sunset from it and sleep beside it, but you will not see sand to the horizon.

Camps vary a lot. Some sit right in the dunes, others on gravel a short walk away. Ask for the camp's area or name before booking, because a generic dune photo tells you nothing about what is outside your tent.

Zagora desert camps: standard or superior?

Category names mean different things to different operators. Rather than trust the label, check the facts you can verify: a bathroom inside the tent or shared blocks, the type of bed, whether tents are shared with strangers and whether there is a single supplement.

Desert nights are cold from November to March. Ask about heating or extra blankets, and pack a warm layer anyway.

The Timbuktu sign and Zagora town

Zagora is known for its sign reading Tombouctou 52 jours, the camel-caravan time to Timbuktu. The sign you see today is the famous one or its replica, as the original has been repainted and replaced over the years. Tours often stop there for a photo on the way to camp.

When to pick Merzouga instead

If big dunes are why you are going to the desert, find a third day and go to Merzouga. The extra day buys you Erg Chebbi, a far larger erg, with a night in the Dades area on the way.

If you cannot find that day, choose Zagora for what it is: the Atlas, the Drâa valley and a night in camp. Our Merzouga guide and two days from Marrakech set out the trade-off.